Template Tools
How to caulk around a bathtub PDF Print E-mail
Written by Administrator   
Monday, 17 August 2009 14:32
Aging caulk, around a sink, between a tub and the tile surround it, or covering the joints of a shower stall, provides a place for shower mildew to take hold, or worse --for water to seep through and destroy wallboard and framing. The good news is that caulk is very cheap and applying it isn't very difficult. It can take about an hour and all you need are a few common tools, and materials you can find at any hardware store. The key is to do it right, or you'll be caulking again in a year or two. You have to completely remove the old caulk and any. You need to start fresh with a clean, smooth, and dry surface.
Tools needed
1. 5-in-1 tool or a utility knife
2. Caulking
Parts/supplies needed
1. Non-abrasive pad
2. Cotton Rag
3. Painter's Tape
4. Caulk
About caulk

For tubs, sinks, or shower stalls, use caulk that comes in tubes labeled “Tub and Tile” or “Kitchen and Bath.” Either acrylic latex or silicone compounds, these caulks have been chemically engineered to resist mildew and to stick to smooth, nonporous surfaces like ceramic. But they have differences:

Silicone: Tough, waterproof, and very flexible, this type of caulk doesn’t work with all surface conditions. It’s difficult to smooth, mineral spirits are required for cleanup, and will smell up a room until it cures (dries). Silicone caulk leaves a residue that’s hard for anything (including new silicone) to stick to. That’s why if silicone caulk was used in a spot before, it must be scrubbed with an abrasive pad soaked in mineral spirits. It also only comes in clear, white, and almond colors.

Acrylic Latex: Compared with silicone, acrylic latex caulk is much more forgiving both in cleanup and the surface it can be applied to. Smoothing it is easy, it cleans up easily with water, and it doesn’t have much (if any) smell. It shrinks more and dries harder than silicone, so it will probably need to be replaced a little sooner --but replacing it is much easier than silicone. Acrylic latex caulk comes in many more colors and can be matched to your sink and tub glazes.


Step by Step
1. Remove Existing Caulk

Cut away your old acrylic latex caulk with quick, sharp strokes of a 5-in-1 painter's tool and a razor scraper or a utility knife. Please note: metal blades can scratch plastic sinks, tubs, and surrounds; use a plastic razor blade instead. Caulk removers also harm plastic.
2. Scrub

Scrub with a dry, nonabrasive pad to remove every trace of caulk residue. If you have old silicone caulk, use a pad soaked in mineral spirits. Use a soft rag dampened with mineral spirits, not a scouring pad, to avoid scratching plastic fixtures. Wipe the joint to with a damp cloth rag to remove the caulk dust and prepare the surface for the new caulk. Make sure to dry the area well with a dry rag or a hair dryer.
3. Tape and Caulk

Use two parallel strips of blue painter’s tape, about 3⁄8 inch apart, to help you keep the bead of caulk straight and uniform. It will also keep the caulk off surfaces it shouldn’t be on. Trim the nozzle at a 45-degree angle near the tip. The hole in the nozzle should be just big enough to fill the joint, roughly 3⁄16 inch. Point the nozzle hole toward the joint; hold the gun the same distance from the surfaces on either side of the joint and about 45 degrees out from it. Put steady pressure on the trigger as you move the gun smoothly along the length of the seam. It doesn’t matter if you prefer to push or pull the gun, it’s just important to be steady. Keep the caulk gun moving at a steady speed to keep up with the rate that caulk is coming out of the nozzle. If you move too fast, the bead will be too thin, possibly with bubbles or breaks in the seal. If you move too slowly, you will waste material and spend more time cleaning up. It takes some finesse.
4. Smooth the bead
Quickly, when the seams are filled, take a damp lint-free rag or paper towel and press it into the joint with your finger. Pull it along the joint in one continuous movement to shape the fresh caulk into a concave (curved inward) bead. Then quickly pull the tape off, one strip at a time –make sure the tape doesn’t touch any of the fresh caulk. Go back immediately and smooth the bead again to smooth out the tiny ridges left by the tape’s edges. Let the caulk cure (set) for at least 24 hours before using the sink, shower, or bath.
 

Sponsored Links