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| How to Repair a Two-Handled Stem Faucet |
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| Written by Administrator |
| Monday, 17 August 2009 14:28 |
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Most people will ignore a dripping faucet out of fear or ignorance, they usually crank the handle so hard they tear a rubber washer or cracking something and make the leak worse. It’s a repair that an experienced plumber can finish within 10-15 minutes and a handy homeowner in about 30 minutes. Most leaky compression faucets really only need new seat washers. You can check by prying off the decorative cap on each of the handles, removing the handles’ screws, pulling off the handle and using a crescent wrench to unscrew each handle’s packing nut. After you unscrew each stem, remove and replace the seat washer which is held in place by a brass screw. Remove the stem from the packing nut and replace the O-ring –one of the main culprits for leaky handles. Put the faucet back together and tighten the packing nut. If your faucet continues to leak, it’s possible that the seat has become pitted. You’ll need to remove the stem and then grind smooth the valve seat with a valve-seat dresser, a tool that can be temporarily screw down into the faucet. Tools needed 1. Adjustable Wrench (to loosen the packing nut) 2. Faucet-Handle Puller (in case the handle won't budge and you need more force to remove the screw) 3. File (to file away the pitted wall of the stem) 4. Needlenosed pliers (to pull out the stem assembly) 5. Screwdriver (for removing the screw that holds the handle in place) 6. Seat Wrench (to remove the seat and check it for burrs) Parts/supplies needed 1. Seat Washer (the rubber disk on the stem's underside) 2. Washer Screw (made of brass) 3. Nickel/Copper-Alloy Retainer Bowl (to rebuild the stem) 4. Pipe Joint Compound (to reseal the seat) Step 1: Removing the cap and handle A dripping spout indicates that the problem is in one of the handles, remove the caps from the water handles. If you find encrusted screws, you can try strong-arming them with a screwdriver, but you can end up stripping the head or hurting yourself. You may need to use a faucet-handle puller to get the job done. Step 2: Disassembling the stem Next you need to remove the packing nut, which attaches the stem into the faucet body. Loosen it with an adjustable wrench, then pull out the entire stem assembly with a pair of needlenosed pliers. The seat washer (a rubber disk on the stem's underside), usually the cause in a spout drip, may look scarred, and its fastener screw badly corroded. If that’s the case, twist the screw off carefully –you don’t want to snap its shank. If you do, it will be necessary to drill it out and rethread the hole with a "tap and die" kit. Step 3: Fixing and rebuilding the stem Before replacing the washer, you may want to take care of the protruding edge that the washer fits into. You can file away the pitted wall and replaces it with a nickel/copper-alloy retainer bowl. It will be held in place by a new washer screw. Sometimes it's better to rebuild the stem instead of buying a new part because you can save money and replacement parts for older faucets can be tough to find. Step 4: Inspecting the valve seat and reassembly Find an identical-size replacement washer and fastens it on with the new brass screw. Before you place the stem back on the valve seat (the cylindrical piece that butts against the washer and creates a seal with it when the faucet is off), remove the seat with a special seat wrench. Turn it counterclockwise and checks it for burrs caused by scraping and corrosion. If the seat is badly damaged you could end up replacing the washer repeatedly, but it will continue leaking. If it’s undamaged you won’t need to replace it. Just seal it with pipe joint compound and reassemble the handle. |
| Last Updated ( Monday, 17 August 2009 14:30 ) |
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